Temples of Ji-Biru

Part One: Tokyo

Beer Travels August 23, 2007
Written by MartinT

Montreal, CANADA -

The multicolored delight of watching freshly-assembled nigirizushi plates turn around the room on a conveyor belt. The amazement at seeing a century-old pagoda burst through a blaze of neon shop signs. The incomprehension at how a thousand people can cross the same intersection every minute, while barely producing any noise. These are some images you’ll most likely encounter when looking for travel information on Japan. Rarely, since Michael Jackson’s first ventures out there, will you find comprehensive English information displaying the wonders of the Japanese craft beer scene. Why is that? Well, the belief that Japan is one of the most expensive countries to travel through, paired with its position halfway across the globe from most beer lovers, can’t help. The lack of English data, proper addresses, and detailed descriptions of what is to be found at each of the country’s 220 or so craft breweries could also discourage the beer taster, who might feel persuaded to visit a trailblazed European beer kingdom instead. With this series of articles, I will try to quell some of these fears, give you some precise directions on how to reach the desired nectars, and moreover, convince you that the ji-biru scene is bustling and highly deserving of more visitors. This informal guide to a few beery regions of Japan does not aim to be a complete assessment of all breweries and beer bars in those areas (far from it, actually), nor does it try to single out only the most worthy establishments. It is a mere account of all ji-biru places I sought out and encountered on my most recent trip, and, hopefully, it will help you on your own pilgrimage to this land of contrasts.

Part I: Tokyo

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There are hundreds of interesting beer establishments in Tokyo, but not that many focus on ji-biru, or Japanese craft beer. Still, you’d have to stay in Tokyo for a few weeks at least to try a different one each night. Here are those I was able to enjoy:

Popeye’s

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Irashaimase! Irashaimase! You quickly get accustomed to this loud welcome every time you enter a Japanese place of purveyance, but somehow the one at Popeye’s echoes longer in my heart. Irashaimasae! shout again the friendly waiters as they practically run to your table to serve you. They are quite knowledgeable here (if you speak Japanese, that is), and can give you honest information about each of the 40 or so ji-biru they have on tap; most likely the biggest selection in the entire country. Aoki-san, the owner and bartender, selects these beers personally, and that’s why you’ll often see a few beers each from Hakusekikan, Fujizakura, Shiga Kogen, Hidatakayama, and Baird’s here: all top notch breweries. He’s also a big fan of quality high gravity beers, so there’s a very good chance you can have a glass of Hakusekikan’s Super Vintage Ale, Crystal Ale, and Hurricane, Hidatakayama’s Karumina, and a host of other strong ales from various breweries around the country, and this, even in summer time! Two thirds of the menu is taken by session ales and lagers of course, of which Fujizakura Weizen, Shiga Kogen IPA, Baird’s Divine Vamp III, and Iwate Kura’s cask IPA are bound to prove you beyond any doubt that ji-biru deserves much more recognition. Don’t let the giant screens and sports shows take you away from the real action: Popeye’s is a world-class beer establishment, and an obvious must stop in Tokyo.

An easy way to get there:

Get off at Ryogoku Station. Walk south one block from the station exit, and look for this building:

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You can go to Popeye’s website for a small map of the area: <a hrefhttp://www.40beersontap.com/>http://www.40beersontap.com/.

Also, a 30-minute walk across the bridge, you should find that:

-Eating sembei crackers along the food stalls leading to Asakusa temple is a nice introduction to the country:

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-The plastic meal replica stores along Kappabashi-dori are as appetizing as they are entertaining.

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The Aldgate

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If the countless colorful billboards, the gigantic screens, and the horribly fake golden-brown tans of young Shibuya women haven’t blinded you, you should make your way to the third floor of this building:

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Here, in this warm British-style brown bar, you will find respite from the bustling businessmen and harmless attention-seeking youths that straggle along Shibuya streets and alleyways. If you go in early (early in Shibuya being before 10-11pm), you might have the place to yourself, which is somewhat of a shock after making your way through the neighbourhood. A dozen or so ji-birus are available on tap, a few of them renamed by the owner. The waitresses and the owner speak English, so you can easily ask them who brews the beer you see on the board if the information isn’t readily available. Prices are reasonable here for ji-biru, even for seasonal specials they bring. The 3 we had that day, Baeren’s 4th Anniversary Porter, Iwate Kura’s Miyabi Premium Lager, and Sankt Gallen’s Sweet Vanilla Stout were flawlessly served, and fine reminders of how vastly different the Japanese craft beer scene is from its southeastern Asian neighbors.

An easy way to get there:

Get off at Shibuya station’s Hachiko exit, and locate the Starbucks (it’s huge). Walk up the street on the left of the Starbucks, past the McDonald’s, and on your right, you will see the building pictured above. The Aldgate’s website has a handy drawing of the area too:http://www.the-aldgate.com/newweb/map_n.htm

Meanwhile:

-Every time a green light flashes, a few people cross the street:

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-The cleanliness of the streets makes you realize how much of a dump most North American cities are.

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Towers

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There’s this new trend apparently in Tokyo called the “standing bar”. One bar, a few taps, no seating whatsoever, barely enough room for 7-8 people. Some occidentals would liken it to a walk-in closet, I’m sure. Real estate being absurdly expensive in downtown Tokyo and people always being in a hurry are two of the main factors which have hastened the opening of such tiny bars. In these establishments, people can drop in for a quick pint or two and swiftly go back towards their original destination. Towers is such a bar, but with a refreshing ji-biru twist. The fertile and soothing Yona Yona Real Ale is usually on cask here, and often seen on tap are one beer from the reclusive Nagahama Brewery (either the intensely-hopped “Ale” or the fruity “Weizen”), the surprisingly complex Sapporo Edelpils, and a surely-satisfying Baird seasonal. The intimate setting is bound to make you start up a conversation with whoever’s standing near you, and the knowledgeable bartender/owner will serve promptly while giving you all the info you need about the beer you have chosen. If you can find it, you’ll surely enjoy this veritable hole in the wall.

An easy way to get there, courtesy of my Tokyo guide, Tim Eustace:

Get off at Tokyo Station, Yaesu south exit. Walk down Sotobori past Pan Pacific Hotel to the first major intersection. Turn left and cross Sotobori, and walk one block. You will see a Kinkos on your right. Right around the corner from the Kinkos, you will see the bar’s entrance:

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PS. Stay tuned for “Part II: Tokyo (cont’d)”…next week.

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There’s this new trend apparently in Tokyo called the “standing bar”. One bar, a few taps, no seating whatsoever, barely enough room for 7-8 people.

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