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Advice on a double IPA recipe


read 435 times | 9 replies | posted 11/1/2009 11:38:13 AM
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bushchr1 1:0 spacer
’m getting ready to brew my first double IPA and I was looking for some feedback on my recipe. I want to make this with a lower ABV than many beers of this style, sort of similar to a stone ruination ipa. I bought a ton of hops the other day, all of which are whole leaf, and I figured I would get rid of a bunch of them in this recipe:

5 gallons (75% efficiency):
9 lbs pale malt (2 row)
1 lb carapils
1 lb victory
0.5 lb crystal 20
1 lb light DME
1.25 lb sugar

1 oz. centennial-FWH
2 oz. centennial-30 min
2 oz. centennial-15 min
1 oz. simcoe-15 min
2 oz. centennial-10 min
2 oz. centennial-5 min
2 oz. simcoe-5 min
2 oz. chinook-5 min
2 oz. centennial-0 min
1.5 oz. simcoe-0 min
1 oz. chinook-0 min
1.5 oz. centennial-dry hop (10 days)
1.5 oz. simcoe-dry hop (10 days)

I know these whole leaf hops will suck up a lot of my beer, but I’m just going to have to deal with that, I couldn’t buy pellets. Let me know how it looks!
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JoeMcPhee 5000:262
Move your 2 oz of centennial at 30 minutes back to 60 minutes. I’d move the 15 minute additions to 5 or less as well, but that’s up to you. I’d also get rid of the crystal 20 as well. Otherwise, I think you’ll be in good shape. 11/1/2009 12:05:53 PM

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ketchepillar 480:9
A couple things to note that I feel held back my IIPA from being what I wanted. 1. Water-It’s pretty balanced sulfate:chloride, next time I will bump up the sulfate to make that hop bitterness shine. 2. Boil-off rate: mine was too high, the wort was darker than the anticipated SRM. All that melanoidin character got in the way of a the blisteringly dry hop bomb that I wanted, even though I had 86% AA. 11/1/2009 2:28:52 PM

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DirtyMartini 194:4
I prefer to simplify and not have additions every 5 mins at the end of the boil. I think homebrewers often overcomplicate their recipes. I used to think that there was something weird about 30 min additions, but it seems many brewers use them. However, my advice is to break it down into simpler additions....say 20, 10, KO with KO having the biggest addition. Something like this:

FWH:
1oz of your choice of bittering hop

20 mins:
1oz each centennial, simcoe

10 mins:
1oz each centennial, simcoe,

KO:
3oz centennial and simcoe, 2oz of chinook

Dry hop:
2-3oz each of whichever dry hops you want

As far as your malt bill, I think 1 lb of victory is a lot...its going to give off a lot of biscuity flavors. If thats what you want, go for it. If you want a simpler malt character so the hops shine I would drop it and sub another lb of base malt or at least drop the victory to 4-8oz max. mash in the high 140s (148-150) if you want it drier like pliny, 152 if you want more body and malt character.

As for the hop asborption, when you transfer to the fermenter use something sterilized to press as much of the liquid out of the hops through the strainer.
11/1/2009 9:36:45 PM

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emacgee 1872:25
Originally posted by DirtyMartini
I prefer to simplify and not have additions every 5 mins at the end of the boil. I think homebrewers often overcomplicate their recipes. I used to think that there was something weird about 30 min additions, but it seems many brewers use them. However, my advice is to break it down into simpler additions....say 20, 10, KO with KO having the biggest addition. Something like this:

FWH:
1oz of your choice of bittering hop

20 mins:
1oz each centennial, simcoe

10 mins:
1oz each centennial, simcoe,

KO:
3oz centennial and simcoe, 2oz of chinook

Dry hop:
2-3oz each of whichever dry hops you want

As far as your malt bill, I think 1 lb of victory is a lot...its going to give off a lot of biscuity flavors. If thats what you want, go for it. If you want a simpler malt character so the hops shine I would drop it and sub another lb of base malt or at least drop the victory to 4-8oz max. mash in the high 140s (148-150) if you want it drier like pliny, 152 if you want more body and malt character.

As for the hop asborption, when you transfer to the fermenter use something sterilized to press as much of the liquid out of the hops through the strainer.


Do you ever worry about extracting tannins or astringent compounds when pressing your whole hops/pellets?
11/1/2009 9:59:54 PM

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absolutesites 2:0
Originally posted by bushchr1
5 gallons (75% efficiency):
9 lbs pale malt (2 row)
1 lb carapils
1 lb victory
0.5 lb crystal 20
1 lb light DME
1.25 lb sugar


I would simplify this a bit. Maybe something like this:

10 lbs 2 - row
0.5 lbs carapils
0.5 lbs victory
2 lbs sugar

Also, right now you’re probably sitting at about 8%, if you add 2 more lbs of base, you’ll come in around 9%. Just a thought.

Originally posted by bushchr1
1 oz. centennial-FWH
2 oz. centennial-30 min
2 oz. centennial-15 min
1 oz. simcoe-15 min
2 oz. centennial-10 min
2 oz. centennial-5 min
2 oz. simcoe-5 min
2 oz. chinook-5 min
2 oz. centennial-0 min
1.5 oz. simcoe-0 min
1 oz. chinook-0 min
1.5 oz. centennial-dry hop (10 days)
1.5 oz. simcoe-dry hop (10 days)


Personally, I would simplify this as well.

2 oz. FWH and EVERYTHING else under 5 minutes. DH looks good.
11/2/2009 7:14:04 AM

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DirtyMartini 194:4
Originally posted by emacgee
Originally posted by DirtyMartini
I prefer to simplify and not have additions every 5 mins at the end of the boil. I think homebrewers often overcomplicate their recipes. I used to think that there was something weird about 30 min additions, but it seems many brewers use them. However, my advice is to break it down into simpler additions....say 20, 10, KO with KO having the biggest addition. Something like this:

FWH:
1oz of your choice of bittering hop

20 mins:
1oz each centennial, simcoe

10 mins:
1oz each centennial, simcoe,

KO:
3oz centennial and simcoe, 2oz of chinook

Dry hop:
2-3oz each of whichever dry hops you want

As far as your malt bill, I think 1 lb of victory is a lot...its going to give off a lot of biscuity flavors. If thats what you want, go for it. If you want a simpler malt character so the hops shine I would drop it and sub another lb of base malt or at least drop the victory to 4-8oz max. mash in the high 140s (148-150) if you want it drier like pliny, 152 if you want more body and malt character.

As for the hop asborption, when you transfer to the fermenter use something sterilized to press as much of the liquid out of the hops through the strainer.


Do you ever worry about extracting tannins or astringent compounds when pressing your whole hops/pellets?


Not with hops. Yes with grain.
11/3/2009 5:29:45 PM

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telejunkie :0
Originally posted by absolutesites
Originally posted by bushchr1
5 gallons (75% efficiency):
9 lbs pale malt (2 row)
1 lb carapils
1 lb victory
0.5 lb crystal 20
1 lb light DME
1.25 lb sugar


I would simplify this a bit. Maybe something like this:

10 lbs 2 - row
0.5 lbs carapils
0.5 lbs victory
2 lbs sugar

Also, right now you’re probably sitting at about 8%, if you add 2 more lbs of base, you’ll come in around 9%. Just a thought.

Originally posted by bushchr1
1 oz. centennial-FWH
2 oz. centennial-30 min
2 oz. centennial-15 min
1 oz. simcoe-15 min
2 oz. centennial-10 min
2 oz. centennial-5 min
2 oz. simcoe-5 min
2 oz. chinook-5 min
2 oz. centennial-0 min
1.5 oz. simcoe-0 min
1 oz. chinook-0 min
1.5 oz. centennial-dry hop (10 days)
1.5 oz. simcoe-dry hop (10 days)


Personally, I would simplify this as well.

2 oz. FWH and EVERYTHING else under 5 minutes. DH looks good.


I personally really like these recs best. although I might up the DH a little bit more. Also make sure if you do go this route, give the wort a good whirpool and leave for about 10 mins before chilling.
11/4/2009 8:20:36 AM

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emerica56 581:3
Originally posted by bushchr1
I’m getting ready to brew my first double IPA and I was looking for some feedback on my recipe. I want to make this with a lower ABV than many beers of this style, sort of similar to a stone ruination ipa. I bought a ton of hops the other day, all of which are whole leaf, and I figured I would get rid of a bunch of them in this recipe:

5 gallons (75% efficiency):
9 lbs pale malt (2 row)
1 lb carapils
1 lb victory
0.5 lb crystal 20
1 lb light DME
1.25 lb sugar

1 oz. centennial-FWH
2 oz. centennial-30 min
2 oz. centennial-15 min
1 oz. simcoe-15 min
2 oz. centennial-10 min
2 oz. centennial-5 min
2 oz. simcoe-5 min
2 oz. chinook-5 min
2 oz. centennial-0 min
1.5 oz. simcoe-0 min
1 oz. chinook-0 min
1.5 oz. centennial-dry hop (10 days)
1.5 oz. simcoe-dry hop (10 days)

I know these whole leaf hops will suck up a lot of my beer, but I’m just going to have to deal with that, I couldn’t buy pellets. Let me know how it looks!



It looks very good, I haven’t started to dry hop yet on my IPA’s but your hop additions look fine.
11/5/2009 12:44:48 PM

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PilsnerPeter 2617:95
Are you kegging this? Either way, can you send me a bottle/hand bottle? Sounds good! 11/5/2009 12:47:30 PM

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