Originally posted by joeneugs For the most part, 2-6oz during final 5min, dry hop with 4-6oz of pellets in weighted sack in keg for 7 days moving keg around 2x/day. Remove sack, carb, serve. Pretty straight forward really. |
Well, the hops are about 6 months old, but I store them vacuumed sealed in the freezer. They smelled pretty potent and fresh when I put them in. |
Grain bill: |
This is a fascinating thread with a lot of great contributions, Joe. Thanks for starting it. |
I added 2 oz. of Citra pellets to a 1/2-gallon growler and "dry-hopped" that sumbitch for two days. It was happy as a muthaducka. Had to dilute with like 4-to-1 "unhopped" fresh beer from the tap to balance it out a bit. Was delicious. Would do it again in a heartbeat (when I could drink 2 1/2 gallons of beer in one sitting). |
Originally posted by joet Rodger Davis of Faction has told me numerous times that I need to add the dry-hops near the end of fermentation while there’s still yeast activity and then "cap the fermentor" to get great aroma. I asked him what he meant by that, and he told me to literally seal up the fermentor when the beer is a couple gravity points away from terminal gravity so that the volatile aromas are trapped in the beer. It seems to me that yeast activity would blow off some of the aromatics rather than trap them, but he swears by this method. The problem is, I ferment in carboys. The couple times I tried this method, I ended up blowing the caps right off the top of the carboys due to built up pressure. It would be easier if I had a conical like pro brewers use. I’ve heard Kyle Smith of Kern River and Matt Brylindson of Firestone Walker say the same kind of things, but they also mention that they have to burp the fermentor before each dry hop addition, so it seems like the aroma is escaping anyway… I know it’s good to have yeast activity during dry hopping also so that the oxygen in the pellets is metabolized, but I would think theres still plenty of cells in suspension even after fermentation is complete to do this job. Honestly in this case, I think I needed to go heavier on the whirlpool hops. Maybe even another ounce or two in the dry hop for such a big beer. |
In my experience homebrewers tend to over value what the pros are doing and over complicate things. The pros are doing things based on their systems and often their limitations, they also have their bottom line to deal with and is often what guides their decision making, this doesn’t always translate to the homebrew scale. There are advantages and disadvantages on both sides. |
Yeah, I usually don’t use any crystal malt in IPA’s, just a little carapils. This recipe is based on the Kern River Citra recipe Kyle Smith gave out on the brewing network. In fact the malt bill is identical to that beer. |
Originally posted by joeneugs Ayep. Like 6 - 8 oz. heavier. Originally posted by joeneugs That wouldn’t hurt, but it isn’t your problem. FWIW, no matter the gravity of the beer, all my hoppy beers get two, one-week long dry hoppings. Usually they are 3 oz. each for a 5.5 gallon batch. Anxious to hear what happens when you make these changes. |
Originally posted by joeneugsI’m not pro brewer but that whole process seems completely counter-intuitive to just waiting for fermentation to finish so no yeast push out any hop aroma from dry-hopping, nor will it scrub away the oils. Edit: and again, there’s seemingly no value to dry-hopping multiple times. The hop oils are all extracted from dry-hopping within the first 24-72 hours at most. Any lag period after that is just causing the oils to start their time ticker. http://inhoppursuit.blogspot.com/2012/02/more-aroma-oil-faster-dry-hopsters-holy.html |
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