<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"><channel><title>RateBeer Forums: Homebrew</title><atom:link href="http://www.ratebeer.com/rss/forums.asp?id=3" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><description>RateBeer.com news, beer discussions, industry talk, trading, homebrew help and opinion</description><link>http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/</link><lastBuildDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</lastBuildDate><item>
<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Brewing Sours</title>
<description>Posted by ucusty&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I thinking of brewing a couple 5 gallon batches. I was thinking of just doing a Belgian gold and hitting it with some wild yeasts. after a year or so adding a different type of fruit in each one. My first question question is about yeast. Should I get the basic Belgian gold wyeast for the primary and the lambic culture &amp;#40;plus dredges&amp;#41; for the secondary? Also should I consider a 90 min boil or 60 min boil?Thx&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(15 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/brewing-sours_129913.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Help with my IPA recipe</title>
<description>Posted by tilldeath&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So I want to make a Great Divide Titan IPA clone and there is nothing out there for recipes. Talked to my buddy who works at the brewery and while he couldn’t give me exact recipe he did give me this to work with, so I need to know what quantities I’m looking at here. I’m to new to brewing to even guess at it. Help please. Oh and this beer Is fairly piney in flavor not to heavy on citrus, So I was thinking about maybe adding more simcoe somewhere, but again new and not sure.  
  
american 2-row, and 5% crystal 75. simcoe and amarillo bittering. amarillo again for flavoring. columbus at end of boil.  
And Columbus for dry hopping  
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(26 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/help-with-my-ipa-recipe_130035.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Carboy question.</title>
<description>Posted by AnnaEA&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Could I use a 5 gallon polycarbonate water bottle as a carboy? I’ve dug around MSDS info online, and haven’t been able to figure any reason it wouldn’t work.  
  
Anyone with more knowledge then I have any ideas? Because I’ve got 5 gal. water bottles.... I’m thinking of using one for primary on my first batch of homebrew - I plan to make a mini 1 gallon batch, to see if I like the process before I start throwing money at specialized equipment.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(7 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/carboy-question_130067.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Sulfites</title>
<description>Posted by Stellaaaa&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I’ve been reading about winemaking lately, and a lot of articles mention sulfites being essential to winemaking. However, I was wondering why I’ve never heard anyone make such a fuss about sulfites when making beer. Does anyone add these to their beer?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(2 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/sulfites_130090.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>My first IIPA tastes a little off</title>
<description>Posted by nqualls&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The following was the recipe:  
  
13 pounds 2 row  
0.5 pounds Carapils  
0.5 pounds 40L  
  
Mashed at 152 for 90 minutes  
  
2 pounds corn sugar &amp;#40;to the boil&amp;#41;  
  
2 oz Columbus &amp;#40;FWH&amp;#41;  
6 oz Hop Mixture &amp;#40;5&amp;#41;  
6 oz Hop Mixture &amp;#40;KO&amp;#41;  
6 oz Hop Mixture &amp;#40;DH&amp;#41;  
  
Hop mixture was 3 oz centennial and simcoe, 2 oz amarillo, 4 oz columbus and 6 oz cascade.  
  
  
My problem is that there is a distinct sweetness to the aroma and flavor. Not bad...and definitely not undrinkable, but a little off. What could have caused this? Anyone?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(11 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/my-first-iipa-tastes-a-little-off_129986.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Stale 2 Row?</title>
<description>Posted by kmeves&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Has anyone had any experience with brewing with older 2 row? I recently made a batch of a double IPA and used the last 15 pounds of a bag that I purchased earlier this year. My beer has a oxidized character and I am wondering if this can be attributed to the malt. Basically the malt had a slight soft chewiness when you put it in your mouth, not crunchy like most malt I sample.   
  
Any input is welcome.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(2 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/stale-2-row_129738.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>cleaning a sankey pump</title>
<description>Posted by wickedpete&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I was given a sankey keg pump for Christmas and I was wondering how I’m supposed to clean it after I use it so it isn’t all moldy and stuff inside. Any advice?  
  
Thanks&amp;#033;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(5 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/cleaning-a-sankey-pump_129757.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Its been too long</title>
<description>Posted by aracauna&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I realized recently that it’s been more than a year since I brewed my last beer. It’s been far too long, so I just placed my order for ingredients and I’ll be brewing my Flying Tortoise IPA and a Grapefruit Hefeweizen I found in Zymurgy either next weekend or the one after that. Basically whichever one I have time to make a yeast starter for when the ingredients arrive.  
  
Then, the next weekend after that I plan on brewing Springslicker’s Toasted Coconut Porter and a weizenbock to pitch onto the yeast cakes from the other two beers. That’ll fill my kegs and keep me in beer for a while.  
  
I want to hook up my Johnson Control and try some lagering soon too.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(4 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/its-been-too-long_129903.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Temperature control</title>
<description>Posted by Vonriken&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I’m wondering if anyone knows of a cheap and simple method of controlling the temperature of fermentation. Living here in New Zealand the options are very limited, I have been told there is a proprietary thermo switch available but the price seems prohibitive. Any help or suggestions welcomed gratefully.  
  
Cheers to all Eric&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(4 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/temperature-control_129749.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Brett IPA?</title>
<description>Posted by Beaver&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I’m thinking of brewing an IPA with Brett &amp;#40;combines 2 of my favorite things&amp;#033;&amp;#41;.  
  
I’ve never brewed with Brett before. Any tips, pointer, BKMs? Bad idea or good idea?   
  
Thanks in advance&amp;#033;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(31 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/brett-ipa_129011.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Barley question</title>
<description>Posted by Stellaaaa&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I don’t have ready access to a homebrew shop, but I got some hops and barley at this local Mennonite grain/general store as well as some brewer’s yeast from the grocery store. I’m wondering what to do with the barley though, and if I got the right kind. It’s whole shelled kernels of barley that are neither ground into a flour nor flattened into an oatmeal-type state. Is this the right sort of barley to use, and if so, what do I do next?  
  
I know pretty much all of the steps after the malting/roasting process, but this first step has always been a bit elusive to me.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(5 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/barley-question_129764.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>A worried parent....</title>
<description>Posted by Funknmilla&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I brewed a sour cherry ale last night and put it in the room I usually use to let it ferment...this room is usually around 60-65 degrees...well over night the the temp dropped to around 50...in the morning I checked it and no bubbles :&amp;#40;...I moved it to a warmer room now&amp;#045;&amp;#045;-my question is will the yeast still work??...it was about 8 hours in 50 degrees, should I be worried??  
Every batch of beer I brew is like a child to me &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(8 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/a-worried-parent_129736.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Dry Hopping and AAU question</title>
<description>Posted by rudolf&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Hi folks,  
 When I use a recipe from a magazine I adjust boil hop quantities to match the AAUs of the hops I have on hand. So for instance, if a recipe calls for 2oz of cascade at 8 AAU, but my cascades are 6 AAU I’ll use 2.66oz. Either way, it’s going to contribute the same number of IBUs.  
  
 Does it make sense to do this for dry hopping? It doesn’t seem that I should need to but maybe I’m wrong. If a recipe asks for a dry hop of 1oz of cascades @ 8 aau should I be using 1.33 oz of 6 AAU cascades?  
  
Thanks,  
rudy  
  
  
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(4 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/dry-hopping-and-aau-question_129562.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Sour Cherry Ale Name</title>
<description>Posted by Funknmilla&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;any name suggestions?...I’m brewing this tonight and this baby needs a proper name &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(7 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/sour-cherry-ale-name_129694.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>WTF happend?and#033;? </title>
<description>Posted by tilldeath&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So I open a bottle of my Bavarian hefe, 6lb. Wheat dme-.5 lb. Cara pils-.5lb. Pilsen, pour it and take a wif. Banana aroma from far away when pouring but up close, smell of matchsticks. Taste more of the same with a slight bleach finish. What did I do to create this? Hindsite my issues with this batch were.... 1. I made my first starter with this batch per mr malty calculation. Using a stirplate and not seeing any activity at about 12hr. I stopped the sirplate and restarted it only to have it erupt out of my flask from agitated co2 in the starter. Possible infection but I was sure not to disturb the starter until I poured it.   
2. Had my first boil over with this batch, although I lost very little volume my fg finished higher than expected. 1.062 vs 1.052 target. I then boiled and cooled 1liter of water and added after pitching. That should have dropped og to about1.060.   
3. My auto siphoning tube came up at 1 point and had to restart the siphon so I might have got some aeration there.   
  
Those were the major things that come to mind here so I’m wondering is this infection, aeration, typical for yeast WL300, or something else?? I’m about ready to pitch it and redo this batch all together.  
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(11 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/wtf-happendand_128662.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Fermentation Temp - too high or too low?</title>
<description>Posted by jmm635&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I read the ideal temp for the yeast I’m using is 60-70F. My basement is typically around 58-60 and a spare bedroom on the first floor of my house stays around 70. What’s the better option?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(18 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/fermentation-temp---too-high-or-too-low_129582.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>suggestions for my IPA recipe</title>
<description>Posted by fredthecat&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Hello, my first beer is turning out just fine now that it has aged enough, my friends find it quite drinkable&amp;#033; But I’ve been itching to make a second batch so badly, and I think I will try to make an IPA from a brewhouse kit &amp;#40;pale ale kit&amp;#41; recipe on their page  
  http://www.thebrewhouse.com/resource_center/the_inner.htm#Indi
a  
  
  
I know i’m failing to follow some advice in the &amp;quot;Stone Cold Lead Pipe Lock’d N00b Advice&amp;quot; thread by trying to alter a kit early on, but I’ve been using yeast for many years, am very good in the kitchen and have made other alcoholic stuff before beer.. but I’m wondering about a few things  
  
I only have a 2 gallon pot at the moment, though i do plan on buying a much larger one in the future, I’m planning on just putting 0.5 gallons of wort and 1 gallon of water into the pot &amp;#40;so i have a lower percent ale in the end than an IIPA&amp;#41; with the malt and hops  
  
Noob question - do i need to sanitize the hops i put in at the dryhop stage, and how?  
  
i dont think they sell wyeast at my beerstore or any around here, which safeale should i use? i was planning on just asking them  
  
how much are hops roughly? just wondering because theres a fair bit required  
  
i plan on letting it sit in the primary for two weeks, secondary for 10 days and to sit in bottles for at least a month. does this sound about right?  
  
btw got a spray bottle for christmas, easier sanitizing&amp;#033;&amp;#033;   
  
  
i need help, i’d love any suggestions, including drastic ones, because... well. im a noob. thanks&amp;#033;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(1 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/suggestions-for-my-ipa-recipe_129620.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Leftover Sediment</title>
<description>Posted by stephen7424&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have brewed two beers from home, one a bavarian wheat, and another was a taddy porter clone. In the wheat I had leftovers in the bottle that looked like glue. I messed up a few things when brewing it in hindsight. the porter has the same but its not nearly as bad, how do i get a clearer looking beer, and what could have happened?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(7 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/leftover-sediment_129591.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Carbonating Keg Questions...</title>
<description>Posted by PilsnerPeter&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Made a IIPA, but it only came out to about 4.25 gallons. &amp;#40;My hops stole a lot&amp;#41; It’s in a sixtel, and has been sitting at 11 psi in my kegerator for six days now. Does extra head space in a keg mean it’ll carbonate quicker? If I tap it prematurely and it’s not fully carbonated does it affect it? &amp;#40;This is my first time kegging, evidently&amp;#41; Thanks&amp;#033; &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(4 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/carbonating-keg-questions_129499.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Book suggestions?</title>
<description>Posted by Pipper&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Any serious must-reads on the topic of brewing hard cider? or should I just be looking at basic homebrewing set-up type books? Any help greatly appreciated&amp;#033;  
  
Cheers,  
Pipper&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(3 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/book-suggestions_129509.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Yeast  screw-up</title>
<description>Posted by Dirtymechanic&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I brewed a California Steam today and screwed up my yeast pitch. I used Wyeast and did a yeast starter. Did this 1 1/2 days prior. This was the first time I used liquid yeast and did not pour the entire portion in. I left most of the bottom out of my wort. Will this still be ok or should I add more yeast or not?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(15 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/yeast--screw-up_129425.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Need advice on specialty grains:</title>
<description>Posted by cking&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I’m planning on brewing up the following, and would like some feedback on how long and at what temperature I should steep the specialty grains, as well as water volume for the steeping. I don’t think I’ve ever used any of the specialty grains listed below before.  
Please help:  
  
Amount Item Type % or IBU   
5.00 lb Light Dry Extract   
3.30 lb Amber Liquid Extract [Boil for 15 min]   
0.50 lb Aromatic Malt   
0.50 lb Biscuit Malt   
0.50 lb Caramunich Malt   
0.50 lb Special B Malt   
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] &amp;#40;60 min&amp;#41; Hops 38.2 IBU   
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] &amp;#40;20 min&amp;#41; Hops 23.1 IBU   
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] &amp;#40;Dry Hop 7 days&amp;#41; Hops -   
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] &amp;#40;0 min&amp;#41; &amp;#40;Aroma Hop-Steep&amp;#41; Hops -   
1 Pkgs Nottingham &amp;#40;Danstar #-&amp;#41; Yeast-Ale   
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(12 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/need-advice-on-specialty-grains_129334.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Oak aged Scotch Porter</title>
<description>Posted by Cletus&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So, I’m about to add 4oz of french oak chips that were soaked in some scotch for 2 weeks to my smoked porter. Two questions:  
  
How long should I keep them in for some moderate oak taste? Is 3 weeks good?  
I want to preserve some of the smoky aspect of this brew. How long should I bulk age it after I remove the oak chips? I plan on kegging this one, carbonating, then letting it bulk age a little, but as stated, would like to preserve some of the smokiness of this one.  
  
The porter is 9% ABV.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(2 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/oak-aged-scotch-porter_129445.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>help with my first batch and#40;its quite boring, and a tiny bit offand#41;</title>
<description>Posted by fredthecat&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;so, my first batch was a munich dark lager kit from &amp;quot;the brewhouse&amp;quot;, i followed the instructions which said to let it primary ferment from 3-5 days... it was pretty vigorous so i transferred it to the secondary fermenter after about 3 and a half days.. and let that sit for 14 days, as the instructions said, added priming sugar-water solution, then bottled it. i just opened one of the smaller size bottles after 4 days of being bottled, and its alright... though it is almost uncarbonated and feels quite thin in both body and flavour &amp;#40;my fault, i set the beer to sit in a place that is slightly too cold, and have just moved them to a warm spot so they do carbonate&amp;#41;. thankfully sanitization was no big problem as i was extremely thorough each time.. it doesnt have any severe off flavours except a slightly chemical feel.  
  
sorry thats so long, basically i have a few questions...  
  
1. the chemical taste i believe may be caused by there being a few drops &amp;#40;less than 5ml at the most&amp;#41;remaining of the diluted iodophor solution i used for sanitizing in about half of the bottles, simply because i did not let them dry long enough... is that dangerous?  
  
2. if i were able to redo this batch from the start, would it make more sense to use the same formula but allow it to primary and secondary ferment for longer? or to have kept a roughly similar timeframe as the instructions suggest but have used some extra grain purchased to flavour the 6 litres of water i added to the brewhouse wort &amp;#40;it suggested 8 litres&amp;#41; and dry hop it a week before bottling?  
  
and any other suggestions for a first time?? i would love any feedback.. i just want to try to learn as much as i can, as i cant wait to get back on the horse as soon as i think i know what to do  
  
thanks&amp;#033;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(2 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/help-with-my-first-batch-and40its-quite-boring-and-a-tiny-bit-offand41_129365.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 7 Jan 2010 16:10:24 EST</pubDate>
<title>Oak Aged Burbon barrel Simulations</title>
<description>Posted by emerica56&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I’m thinking of doing a rendition of a Oak aged bourbon barrel beer. Question is is it better to do it with a smoked porter, or a dry hopped IPA. I have never done dry hopping and want to get into it but i don’t know if the oak aged rendition will come out good. So what do you recommend?  
Cheers &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;(8 replies) &lt;a href=http://www.ratebeer.com/forums/oak-aged-burbon-barrel-simulations_128788.htm&gt;Read more of this discussion&lt;/a&gt; at RateBeer</description>
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