Flying Horse’s Dirty Angel is a lip-smackingly perfect example of what a porter can be. Coloured a deep mahogany like the legendary Portuguese ship buried in the sand near the ’Bool, it has hints of toffee malt, floral notes from Golding’s hops and a dry and mildly bitter finish. Alcohol content is, at 5.8 per cent, relatively high, although not as high as when the original porters cheerfully swigged it on the job.