Cycling. Bamberg; Salzburg, Rothenburg; Cologne

Reads 5871 • Replies 74 • Started Tuesday, March 26, 2013 8:36:43 AM CT

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harrisoni
beers 19407 º places 37 º 12:55 Wed 5/15/2013

Originally posted by Dedollewaitor
Looking forward to hear about your trip , Ian. Doing a few of those places myself later this summer!


OK, will keep some notes and post them on here when I get back or as I go, depending on wifi availability.

 
Erlangernick
beers 6 º places 2 º 02:30 Sun 5/19/2013

It does sound as if Ian’s enjoying himself, based on reports of a happy Briton touring the Bierkeller(s) I’ve been hearing, anyway.

 
Erlangernick
beers 6 º places 2 º 08:35 Sun 5/19/2013

Ian is doing well. Amazingly well today, at least, given the progress he’s made by the Time I caught up with him in Buttemheim. Wet now though...

 
3fourths
beers 9358 º places 1569 º 15:12 Sun 5/19/2013

ugh, Kreuzberg keller hallerndorf was a shitshow. this was on Saturday, it wasn’t very packed, but still had a dirty DisneyLand feeling with loud kids running around and really awful beer from Kreuzberg. thankfully the Lieberth and Rittmayer kellers are up there as well, but I don’t see the draw in sitting around with so many people in a setting like that. very un-chill. also the food did not look so good, a lot of pizza and currywurst and frites. there was smoked fish at least. a much better time was had on the other side of the hill at Roppelt Keller, and their beer was pretty damn kick ass as well. my recommendation to anyone coming to the area is to leave the hilltop kellers and the terrible Kreuzberg beer to the crowds and sit at Dorfkeller Lieberth (Hallerndorf) and Roppelt (Stiebarlimbach) for sessions, where the beer is much better and the setting much more pleasant.

 
Erlangernick
beers 6 º places 2 º 02:40 Mon 5/20/2013

Originally posted by 3fourths
ugh, Kreuzberg keller hallerndorf was a shitshow. this was on Saturday, it wasn’t very packed, but still had a dirty DisneyLand feeling with loud kids running around and really awful beer from Kreuzberg. thankfully the Lieberth and Rittmayer kellers are up there as well, but I don’t see the draw in sitting around with so many people in a setting like that. very un-chill. also the food did not look so good, a lot of pizza and currywurst and frites. there was smoked fish at least. a much better time was had on the other side of the hill at Roppelt Keller, and their beer was pretty damn kick ass as well. my recommendation to anyone coming to the area is to leave the hilltop kellers and the terrible Kreuzberg beer to the crowds and sit at Dorfkeller Lieberth (Hallerndorf) and Roppelt (Stiebarlimbach) for sessions, where the beer is much better and the setting much more pleasant.


Pity you didn’t post this last week, or you could’ve saved poor Ian the trouble of climbing that bloody hill!

Seriously, don’t you think you’re exaggerating a bit with "shitstorm" and "dirty Disneyland", let alone "really awful beer"? The only time I’ve had really awful beer there was years ago, before they (Friedel of Schnaid) built the new Brauhaus. It used to be brewed in Schnaid and then lagered / poured at the old Friedel’s Keller, and it was often *sour*.

The new beers are not so much traditional Franconian, but there have been some good not-so-NON-traditional once like the Schlotfegerla (smokey Schwarzbier) and the old Zwickel, darker than most Zwickelbier(s). And his Bock(s) have been good. And once in a while, he brews a low-gravity lager with real, actual flavour, unlike typical German Leichtbier. And that’s what I look for when I go up there.

Speaking of which, living a 65 minute bike ride away, I get to that area probably twice a week on average between May and October. "That area" being, of course, Stiebarlimbach at the foot of the hill. I’ll bother with the Kreuzberg maybe 3 or 4 times a year, maybe once or twice more later in fall when Roppelt’s have already closed up and there’s a low-gravity beer on. Or when I meet someone up there from out of town or out of the country. IOW, Roppelt’s it is!

People love to hate Friedel’s Brauhaus am Kreuzberg, because it is so new, large, and non-traditional. The current generation of the Friedel family is Mrs. Friedel, married to Norbert Winkelmann, who invested a fortune in building the new place, to live his dream of operating a great big kitchen, microbrewery, and distillery. Karpfen can be quite good (carp), but otherwise it’s not my place to eat. But then I don’t go for Brauhaus fare any more anyway, and find the likes of the Düsseldorfer Altbier houses to be cafeteria-esque in quality, FWIW.

There’s a lot of animosity between Friedel and the other two Keller(s) up there, because of the "foreign" money invested (Norbert comes from distant Erlangen!) and how it’s changed the atmosphere up there. Fair enough. It’s something different, and if having something different ruins someone’s vacation visit, then that’s unfortunate.

Roppelt gets a lot of criticism as well FWIW, for being too large, having too much hot food, and attracting too many "strangers" -- again, people from Erlangen and Nürnberg.

I heartily, heartily recommend the Kreuzberg, because it is pretty much a one-of-a-kind experience: three Bierkeller(s) next to each other on top of a wooded hill in the countryside with a 500 year old pilgrim’s church. Yes, it’s crowded on weekends, and should be avoided then, esPECially Sundays.

 
Erlangernick
beers 6 º places 2 º 02:40 Mon 5/20/2013

Roppelt’s Keller and Lieberth’s Dorfkeller get heaving on weekends too, FWIW, so not sure what to say about not wanting to sit around with so many people in a lovely setting. I mean, there’s nothing special about the Kreuzberg in this regard. AFA kids running around, look for that anywhere too.

I led a group of 35 Yanks on a bus tour of a few breweries in the area a couple of years ago, on one day of their 10-day(?) visit. The word from the group leader later was the Brauhaus am Kreuzberg was the near-unanimous favourite of the entire trip. No accounting for taste, I guess!

 
3fourths
beers 9358 º places 1569 º 14:28 Mon 5/20/2013

Nick, I didn’t intend my comments to be a criticism of your recommendations for Ian. I think you read too much into what I said since you consider yourself a guide for this area. I apologize if my words came across as criticism of you, they were not. however, I realize now that you and I have very different ideas of what a pleasant setting is in Franconia, and it’s likely our taste is beer is very different as well. I stand by my words about Kreuzberg being a crowded, dingy, noisy, tourist-trap, very uncomfortable and full of kids, and to top it all off, the beers I tried were in terrible shape. Kreuzberg so far was the worst beer I have found out in the countryside. Rittmayer and Lieberth beer are quite good, but those can be found elsewhere in a more pleasant setting.

 
Erlangernick
beers 6 º places 2 º 23:38 Mon 5/20/2013

Originally posted by 3fourths
Nick, I didn’t intend my comments to be a criticism of your recommendations for Ian. I think you read too much into what I said since you consider yourself a guide for this area. I apologize if my words came across as criticism of you, they were not. however, I realize now that you and I have very different ideas of what a pleasant setting is in Franconia, and it’s likely our taste is beer is very different as well. I stand by my words about Kreuzberg being a crowded, dingy, noisy, tourist-trap, very uncomfortable and full of kids, and to top it all off, the beers I tried were in terrible shape. Kreuzberg so far was the worst beer I have found out in the countryside. Rittmayer and Lieberth beer are quite good, but those can be found elsewhere in a more pleasant setting.


Don’t read too much into what I write! I don’t consider myself a guide, rather, just lucky enough to live here (*) and have enough time to pursue my interests in things beer. And enough time to post about things once in a while, too wordily at times. I’m glad to help people visiting the area benefit from things I’ve learned.

Looking back on my last post, yeah, it comes across as defensive, I suppose. But don’t read too much into that. I certainly didn’t take your post as criticism of me or anything! I would just hate to have someone come across this thread whilst trip-planning and decide to avoid the place because a superuser of this site didn’t like it. And I thought a bit of background on the animosity between the places might be of interest.

Also should’ve mentioned that I can’t recall ever encountering anyone down at the Roppelt Keller who did *not* share your view of the Friedel Brauhaus, FWIW. It’s a flippin’ schism!

We seem to agree on Edelstoff though, and that’s all that matters, isn’t it?

AFA what a pleasant Franconian setting is, no, I think we do agree: the Kreuzberg on weekends ist Scheiße! Try it again on a pleasant weekday afternoon, maybe?

We should probably meet one time you’re here, right? I’m not as much of an Arschloch in person. Or at least let me know before you’re coming and see if I can point you to any place you haven’t heard of before.

(*Lucky enough, despite the beer, that is.)

 
gunnar
beers 9760 º places 772 º 02:47 Tue 5/21/2013

Thanks for good advices everybody, very helpful in my planning for a 3 day trip in early june, will arrive in Bamberg on the 3 and will rent a bike for a day trip, route as suggested by 3fourths.

 
t0rin0
beers 93 º places 1529 º 11:23 Tue 5/21/2013

Important question: have you found a place to deadlift yet?