Dallas Beer Run

Reprinted from BeerCellar.com with permission

Beer Travels September 24, 2003
Written by TheBeerCellar2

, UNITED STATES -

By Matt Simpson

Managing Editor

Have you ever been dragged along for a trip on which you really didn’t want to go? Well, that’s how this beer run started. My girlfriend’s brother and his family live in Dallas and she had some business there. “I’d really like you to go with me for the weekend,” she said. “They’ve been asking for you for some time now.” Ok…I’ll go. She was paying for the trip, after all.

My only demands were that I sample the wares of the best beer-stores and bars in the area. Given that we really didn’t have anything else planned, it made my wishes much easier to abide. That Saturday, we hit the road as one big, happy family, appeasing my eccentric need to beer-hunt.

Having done my homework, we first hit the World Market. Unimpressive. Now, I know we have World Market here in Atlanta, and don’t misunderstand — I love the place. The wine selection rivals that of many package stores, with better prices. And their kitschy selection of home furnishings, housewares and gourmet foods is unparalleled. But I really was expecting their beer selection to be significantly better than what I find at my local branch. It wasn’t.

Aside from a few solid Belgian selections — Chimay, some Unibroue, etc. — they had nary a world-class beer. At least not the high-gravity stuff I was craving. The collection seemed almost boring — Sierra Nevada (no Bigfoot, but in all fairness, it had sold out all over town almost a month before), some Samuel Smith varieties (no Imperial Stout), Young’s (no Old Nick), etc. They did seem to have quite a few local micros, but nothing with an ABV over 6%. I was out of there.

Our next stop was the grassy knoll. Yes…the Grassy Knoll. Andy, our driver, was gracious enough to drive us right over history. And while you may remember the Zapruder film, let me tell you that it’s a much smaller area in person. The library building has been renovated, the road repaved and the grassy knoll is as green as a stout is thick. I so couldn’t help thinking about Kennedy and history that I made Andy turn around so I could get the reverse angle. Fascinating. And sad.

Anyway, we (I) had more beer running to do, given the bust that was World Market. Now, while I was there, a bright, young woman named Elizabeth vocalized what I was already thinking: their selection was less than stellar. “But,” she said, “You can find much better beer in the coolers and shelves at both Central Market and Whole Foods.”

Well, I was planning to hit them anyway, but to hear my expectations affirmed was very reassuring. After a brief conversation and an exchange of cards, I was off. Not having bought a thing since I needed to save my money for the real deals, off we went.

According to Elizabeth, as soon as I’d enter the Central Market, I’d see the beer cases near the doors, allowing for easy entrance and exiting, should I be disappointed again. It wasn’t so easy for me — probably my fault, knowing my sense of direction. But, after winding though and finding them, I wasn’t disappointed.

Imagine a cold case as long as that in any supermarket. Now, imagine that case filled with nothing but world-class beer. This was fairly impressive. Now, before consulting Ian Gutierrez, the store’s beer guru, I settled in front of the Stone bottles. While they didn’t have many varieties, they did have Arrogant Bastard and Stone IPA. Unfortunately, these are the only two available in this market…a real stumbling block, keeping Dallas from being a true beer Mecca. But the prices were good: $3.69 per bomber…a solid dollar less than Chattanooga.

After a quick inquiry from Ian, I was led to several spots along the cold-beer wall. Knowing I was looking for barley wines and imperial stouts, he brought me to an area containing North Coast’s wares. While they had Old Rasputin, I brushed that aside to grab three four-packs of 2002 Old Stock Ale. At $8.49 each, I considered it a find.

Just left of there was some Old Foghorn, which I gleefully grabbed up. As it turned out, I grabbed up all that remained…one six-pack! At $13.99, it was about average, price-wise. At 7 ounces-per-bottle, though, it reminded me that some breweries need to wake up and smell the recession. C’mon, Anchor, follow Rogue’s lead and put your premium brands into 12 ounce bottles!

Before hitting the road, Ian suggested a few regional brews that might satisfy my high-gravity craving. One in particular caught my eye; Avery Hog Heaven. A 9.2% ABV barley wine in 22 oz. bombers — with flying pigs on the pink and blue label — is something I can’t resist. Although a little expensive, at $4.49 apiece, I have to admit I’m really looking forward to sinking the pink.

While having an impressive selection with knowledgeable handlers, Central Market fell somewhat short of Whole Foods Market’s array. Most of us have either been to a Whole Foods or one of the like. You know the ilk; lots of gourmet foods in aisles that twist and turn like the plant maze in The Shining. Admittedly, I didn’t pay much attention to either the atmosphere or food assortment; I was on a mission.

Almost exclusively in one long, only-warm aisle, the choices in my style range were phenomenal. I actually prefer to buy my beer warm, so as to not necessitate its warming and re-cooling later. I immediately picked up the Old Rasputin I had passed up at the Central Market. At $6.99 per four-pack, it was a veritable steal. That’s less than two bucks a beer. I was also quite impressed with their Belgian collection. I forewent their Orval and Affligem (Dubbel and Tripel) for a couple of bottles of Kwak. Now, this was a beer I haven’t seen in quite some time. And at $5.99 per 750 ml, I figured I’d always be able to make room in the old suitcase.

Gregory Schiappa is the Wine Specialist here, but he really knows his beer, and he likes to “take care of the beer geeks,” who wander in seeking goodies. When asked about anything local, he pointed to the upper right-hand corner of the display, where a bunch of 12 oz., simply labeled bottles sat. I had already grabbed a variety (pre-mixed) six-pack from a company called Real Ale Brewing, out of Blanco, Texas. That mix included two each of their Full Moon Pale Rye Ale, Rio Blanco Pale Ale and Brewhouse Brown Ale.

The beautiful bottles in the corner were from the same company. Sisyphus. Say it with me now: “SI” “SY” “PHUS.” At 10.7% ABV, this behemoth was something I had to have. I took Greg’s word that it was worth every one of the 349 pennies it would take to purchase one, so when he offered me a deal, I agreed to buy several on spec. Having tried it immediately upon arrival home, I can say that it is indeed worthy.

In all my years as President of Ale Atlanta, I find it extremely unusual that this delicacy has never come across our monthly tasting table. Whilst I love my comrades at pints, methinks the most likely probability is that some of the aforementioned members are stashing this manna for their very own cellar collections.

Be that as it may, Greg, being the swell guy he is, dug up a couple of bottles of ’03 Bigfoot, at least enabling me to complete a, now, 7 year vertical. That, along with a few, choice Belgian goblets and tasting glasses, made this place the stop of the trip.

The Beer Cellar is a website covering the beer scene in the Southeastern United States. You can find them at www.TheBeerCellar.com.

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I find it ... unusual that this delicacy has never come across our monthly tasting table. ...methinks the most likely probability is that some of my comrades in pints are stashing this manna for their very own cellar collections.

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