I remember when SNPA was bottle conditioned... |
I see the most knowledgable beer brewers saving bottom of the bottle stuff at our tastings. |
Originally posted by 502F Still is. They’re just really good at controlling the amount of yeast in the bottle to there is only the minimal amount needed and it’s barely noticeable. |
Originally posted by bitbucket A bottle of beer is a fraction of the price of liquid yeast, and you get free beer. Propagating it from a bottle isn’t any harder than making a starter. |
Originally posted by InvalidStout Exactly. |
Originally posted by HornyDevil Actually, you’re making a starter for your starter, and you ultimately have to make the starter as well. (Or, in the worst case scenario, a starter for the starter for your starter.) So, while the process is roughly the same each time, going through the process multiple times is harder unless your time is meaningless, and you were either going to do this or just play another ten games of computer solitaire to fight off the boredom. And then there is the lag between the time when you start all this, and the time you get to brew beer. If you get a bottle-conditioned beer you’re ahead of the game as compared to force carbed beers that still have viable yeast. And speaking of viability, there’s no guarantee of high viability, because that’s not on the brewer’s radar for the beer by the time it gets to you. I’m not saying it can’t be done, it’s just not as easy. |
Originally posted by bitbucket Here’s the very difficult step by step process that I have used to culture bottle dreggs in the past. Please pay VERY close attention to every step as if you don’t do it EXACTLY as I have outlined, your starter will not work. 1) Make starter wort 2) Pour starter wort into growler 3) Let starter wort cool 4) Pitch bottle dreggs into starter wort 5) Put airlock on growler 6) Pitch into fermenter whenever ready If that seems difficult, it’s because it is. |
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