Success in IPA’s

Reads 5437 • Replies 48 • Started Sunday, February 2, 2014 10:17:33 AM CT

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Message CLevar places 23 º 17:36 Sun 2/9/2014 Originally posted by HornyDevil Originally posted by CLevar So, I brewed a pale beer that had a lb of citra between the last ten min of the boil and a hop stand, and another 4 oz as a dry hop (and some mosaic in the keg). But it was fermented entirely with 3 strains of Brett, so I guess it wasn’t an IPA. Brett. would be OK. L. brevis . . . not so much. FIFY.
Message Bontus beers 1044 º places 20 º 00:37 Mon 2/10/2014 I’ve heard some different things about FWH and IPA’s. Two questions for IPA experts: - Preferably aroma or bittering hop for FWH? - How much of the total percentage for FWH (dry hopping excluded)? I’m using Cascade, Chinook & Simcoe for my next IPA. Because of accesibility / freshness. Which would you use for FWH? And for dry hopping, I would use all three, totalling 3 g/l. Comments?
Message HornyDevil 03:48 Mon 2/10/2014 Originally posted by Bontus Preferably aroma or bittering hop for FWH? Bittering, as first wort hopping should be treated exactly the same as a bittering addition. Originally posted by Bontus How much of the total percentage for FWH (dry hopping excluded)? Umm . . . how many IBUs are you aiming for? Originally posted by Bontus I’m using Cascade, Chinook & Simcoe for my next IPA. Because of accesibility / freshness. Which would you use for FWH? I wouldn’t use any of those. I would use Magnum or Horizon because of their high alpha acid and low cohumulone content. However, if we’re stuck choosing between the three, I think Chinook would be the best of the lot. Originally posted by Bontus And for dry hopping, I would use all three, totalling 3 g/l. 3 grams per liter? That’s a bit low. I use a little more than 1 oz. per gallon of finished beer, which comes out to about 7 grams per liter. I guess you could get away with it, but if you really want great aroma, you’ve got to use more hops.

Message HornyDevil 03:50 Mon 2/10/2014 Originally posted by CLevar Originally posted by HornyDevil Originally posted by CLevar So, I brewed a pale beer that had a lb of citra between the last ten min of the boil and a hop stand, and another 4 oz as a dry hop (and some mosaic in the keg). But it was fermented entirely with 3 strains of Brett, so I guess it wasn’t an IPA. Brett. would be OK. L. brevis . . . not so much. FIFY. Thanks. You’re a gem.
Message Bontus beers 1044 º places 20 º 04:35 Mon 2/10/2014 Thanks HornyDevil. A respected Belgian brewer told me the opposite thing about FWH, which got me in doubt. (Use aroma hops, not bittering hops). That’s also why I removed Target/Magnum from the recipe. So you would suggest to keep Target/Magnum for the FWH. Good to know. Recipe aims at 75 IBU. For an 8,5% ABV IPA.
Message pellegjr beers 396 º places 16 º 21:03 Fri 2/14/2014 I think this one is sufficiently closed down, so here’s the summary of the top 3 characteristics for successful IPA: 1. Simple malt bill 2. Late addition of high quality aroma variety hopa 3. Moderate ester profile Thanks for all of the responses! Look forward to a BIF on this one in the near future...
Message SamGamgee P beers 2452 º places 182 º 21:46 Fri 2/14/2014 Originally posted by Bontus Thanks HornyDevil. A respected Belgian brewer told me the opposite thing about FWH, which got me in doubt. (Use aroma hops, not bittering hops). That’s also why I removed Target/Magnum from the recipe. So you would suggest to keep Target/Magnum for the FWH. Good to know. Recipe aims at 75 IBU. For an 8,5% ABV IPA. You want to use aroma hops (preferably noble) for FWH, and it only really does anything in moderately hopped beers like pilsner, where the subtle changes in aromatic character versus late boil hopping will be noticeable. In bigger American styles and with American hops, FWH does nothing that I’ve ever seen proven on any level in tasting trials. It’s basically a way to stabilize some of the heavier essential oils that are key to traditional noble hop kettle aroma in that it oxidizes the oils and makes them more stable during the boil and fermentation. If you are dry hopping a beer, FWH is probably pointless. If you are brewing pilsner with a limited amount of aroma hops, it might benefit your hop aroma to add some for FWH versus at the start of boil.

Message HornyDevil 06:14 Sat 2/15/2014 Originally posted by SamGamgee If you are brewing pilsner with a limited amount of aroma hops, it might benefit your hop aroma to add some for FWH versus at the start of boil. Here’s the rub with this technique producing flavor or aroma. Why not just add more aroma hops to your pilsner and call it a day? Or, if you’re looking for more aroma, dry hop it. If you want more flavor, add more hops after knockout or in the whirlpool. Those are well vetted techniques. Have yet to hear about how much of a FWH charge one needs to produce a significant change in the flavor or aromatic profile of a beer.

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